Palmetto bushes, towering over six feet and flanking both sides of the worn dirt path, their spiky fronds big enough to use as sunshade umbrellas. A red-headed woodpecker soared through the canopy overhead, settling in the crook of a rotted tree trunk, already punctured with holes, ready to tap for bugs. Tall pines reached through the canopy for the sky, shadowing the oaks below- and beyond, a stand of cypress trees stretched out as far as the eye could see.

A panther would not have gone amiss in the landscape, silently sliding through the green fronds to stalk prey and lounging overhead on the hefty live oak limbs among a bed of moss and resurrection ferns. Florida panthers primarily live in the southwest region of the state, but sidled up to the 560,000 acres of Green Swamp, the idea is not far-fetched. Over 300 species of mammals, reptiles, birds, and fish live in the Green Swamp; the headwaters of the Withlacoochee River.

In the distance, the Withlacoochee River snaked a path through the pale cypress trees, beckoning like a Southern siren: “I’ve got bass. Come find me.” 

Discovering the Withlacoochee River Park and the Florida National Scenic Trail

Muddy floodplains and swamp separated me from the river, but would these orange blazes that guided the way on the trail curve back beside the winding Withlacoochee again, or would they lead away from the wetlands to amble towards the drier sand plains and slash pines?

That’s about when I heard the rumble- a low rolling growl. I stopped in my tracks. I’d been thinking too much about panthers in the palmettoes. Another low growl sounded, followed by a gurgle that made me burst out in a relieved laugh.  2 ½ miles in and my own stomach had turned on me, reminding me hours had passed since breakfast and those teriyaki beef jerky sticks that I’d picked up at the gas station were waiting in the car, where I’d left them so as not to entice the local wildlife that I had undoubtedly just scared away. I was hiking on the Florida Trail in Pasco County… or so I thought…

The Withlacoochee River Park Tower above Green Swamp West

Earlier in the day, I arrived at the Withlacoochee River Park in Dade City to find a 40-foot wooden observation tower that overlooked the 406-acre county park along the river. Not much is written about this public green space. A blurb on the Pasco County website and a mention here and there. 

For years, this was the place for the annual Mittie Wood Memorial Mother’s Day Native American Pow Wow an event founded by Muscogee Creek native Mittie Wood and her family to educate the public about the native American culture, and dedicated to her mother, Big Ma and all mothers. The Memorial Mother’s Day Pow Wow was held annually for over 20 years at the park.

Today the park hosts gatherings for family get-togethers and kids’ parties and the occasional county event, like the upcoming Bay Area Renaissance Festival (weekends from February 17 through March 31). Marked walking trails and a paved multi-purpose trail through the park entice hikers and cyclists for a fresh-air adventure.

I followed the winding road through the park past picnic pavilions, playgrounds, and restrooms to the last parking area, the access point to the observation tower and boardwalk. A short hike on a sandy track led up a hill to a wooden platform tower. 

At the top and all around the wooden fourth-floor deck, towering trees vied for their spot in the sun on the canopy roof, and the forest stretched out on all sides. Somewhere out there was the western edge of the Green Swamp and the winding Withlacoochee River. I just couldn’t see it from here.

Withlacoochee River Park Boardwalk 

Back down on ground level, I followed the sign pointing the way to the boardwalk on the opposite side of the hill. At the bottom of the slope, the trail split, each path marked with a different color post. One wrong path and then onto red marked trail led to a wooden boardwalk that once carried hikers across a swampy area, but the drought dried up the wetlands, leaving a grassy pasture. The trail curved upward, back into the shade of the forest canopy. 

Blue, red, and yellow marked trails crisscrossed an all-purpose newly tarmacked path through the woods. Families strolled the paths, joggers, and cyclists sped by. A beautiful Saturday had everyone outside.

I followed the paved trail back, past the lichen-covered ground, the fallen trees, and the resilient live oaks, their limbs stretched out, touching the ground. A pleasant walk. Nice playgrounds & clean toilets. This was a green space for locals to enjoy.

Fishing Pier and a Special Find

Before leaving the park, I stopped at the fishing pier- one quick picture to take before heading home, but I never reached the wooden dock, because, to the right of the ramp, I saw the sign: FT. Florida Trail.

On the Florida Trail… or So I Thought

That legendary 1500-mile Florida National Scenic Trail is a series of connected hiking trails and byways leading from the panhandle and winding down through wild places in the State all the way to the Florida Everglades.

It’s the path to lose yourself on. The path to find yourself on. The Appalachian Trail of the South. The challenge just waiting to be conquered. And many try. But few make the entire length, and when they do, they too become legends. Yes, indeed, heady stuff of dreams. Of course, it went straight to my head.

I grabbed some more water for my day pack and set off on the trail, following the famous orange blazes painted on the trees to guide the way.

About Those Orange Blazes

When you are standing at one orange trail blaze, you will be able to see the next one from there, making your hiking travels easy.

The trail ran parallel to the winding Withlacoochee River with access points. Perhaps they were only deer paths leading to the water? Knobby cypress knees jutted up along the river, their entwined roots providing support for the embankments, while Ibis pecked their peculiar long thin beaks through the river bank mud to search for tasty bugs.

The river ran through the trees, around island mounds, and cascaded over limestone and cypress roots. A symphony of nature. Overhead the clouds dissipated leaving a brilliant blue sky. Tiny white spring flowers decorated the fresh new greenery around the river banks, ready to welcome in an early spring.

The trail turned away from the river and wound beneath a stand of old oaks, each leaning away from the river, their hefty branches bending low. Vines sprinkled with wild yellow Carolina jessamine flowers surrounded tree trunks with halos of color. The entire time I hiked I kept thinking- if I just keep walking, I could end up in the Everglades!

A group of young men bearing homemade walking sticks, aka sturdy branches, passed by as they came out of the woods, as did a family with kids and hiking couples. A busy trail day. A sandy service road cut across the blazed trail. A less scenic shortcut from the well-maintained FT. “It’s a quicker way to the river,” one hiker heading back assured me.

I turned onto the service road. The sandy path cut through cypress trees and cypress knees. Swamplands stretched out to the left- an endless labyrinthine maze of tall cypresses leading to the river.  In the wet season, this area would be underwater, but right now, high and dry.

An animal skull perched on a trail marker, and the crossing of the FT across the service road. The trail headed back into the woods- the way to the river. Back on the FT, I crossed a small grassy meadow, newly cut by a trail keeper, and dove into the depths of the palmetto forest. Darker and wilder.

The river had to be near. I could see it across the swamplands, an opening of blue, but the path turned away again and my stomach growled. A lizard shot across the ground, rattling the leaves. Rattling me. I still had panthers on my mind. It was time to return to civilization. I would not be getting my thru-hiker star but it was a start, wasn’t it?

A Florida Trail, but Not THE Florida Trail

The Florida Trail-marked river trail at Withlacoochee River Park was created in the 1970s. The four-mile trail was an original proposed section of the Florida Trail Route, but the official trail ended up being routed to the east side of the Withlacoochee River.

This path never became a part of the Florida National Scenic Trail. Its trailkeepers, the Florida Trail Association Suncoast Chapter, continue to keep those honorary orange blazes bright and maintain this trail for visitors to enjoy.

Withlacoochee River Park is located at 12449 Withlacoochee Blvd, Dade City, Florida. This is a free Pasco County park for day use, open from dusk to dawn, 7 days a week.

Feature image by Sally White.